One day in 1977 an awesome incident, at first terrifying, and then delightful beyond words, occurred! A gray whale came over to one of our whale-watching Zodiacs, touched our small boat gently, and allowed itself to be petted by us all. It even reached out with its rostrum ("nose") to touch our outstretched hands. Fran began to sing Amazing Grace. The whale stayed for two hours. Everyone sang. Her name is Grace, of course. She was a teenage female, and blew bubbles beneath our small gray Zodiac inflatable, an activity long observed between mother and calf, and considered to be playful.

Grace left. And returned often over many years. And others came. A few at first, then more joined in as the years passed. Mothers brought baby whales to share this experience. Now, increasing numbers of wild gray whales are "friendly," and human visitors hope for an opportunity to celebrate this experience themselves.

To say that a friendly whale encounter is enjoyable or meaningful is to fail to find words. But words really do fail here. Eloquent people have resorted to silent smiles and wide, wide eyes that communicate more than the "Ohhh!" or "Wow!" so often heard when a whale touches one's hand. I have seen distracted photographers throw their film-exhausted cameras onto hard, wet skiff bottoms in order to devote both hands and mind to the delightful passion of responding to the whale's presence. With time for reflection, people have compared the emotional impact of this first encounter with a friendly whale with that of making love. I can relate the experience to witnessing a long total solar eclipse for the first time.

The whales obviously enjoy this, too. I have been sternly accused of anthropomorphizing more than once. However, such are the thoughts of stuffy folks who fail to distinguish academic inquiry from the equally valid magic of nature. I continue to be convinced that some of these gray whales are people watching. Raymond M. Gilmore was for many years the San Diego Natural History Museum's respected marine biologist. Ray knew the gray whales better than anyone. When this "friendly" phenomenon began, Dr. Gilmore stated his belief that this was the whales' response to whale watching as it was being done; he believed the whales were telling us that our presence was ok with them. Me, too!

When Charles M. Scammon, the American whaler, sailed down from San Francisco in the 1850's and 60's to kill the whales for their oil, the animals' response was very different, though equally reasonable. Gray whales soon earned the name "Devil Fish" from the whalers, probably because they sent many a whaler to Hell with a flick of their one-ton tail. The grays would viciously attack the whaling skiffs and defend their young with their lives. This was a violent response to humans who were sharing their waters with deadly intentions, rather than in the mood of peaceful inquiry that characterizes whale watchers of today. 

Could the whales' response be indicative of thought processes? Of intelligence? Or maybe even a sense of humor?

                                                                                                        Piet Van de Mark

We hope you're ready now to meet - and perhaps to be touched by - your own friendly gray whale. This coming season, we offer one personally escorted learning vacation in to the heart of Baja's Enchanted Peninsula right in the heart of "prime time". Check out The Best of Baja page for details...or better yet, give us a call request your Baja Brochure, and let's talk about it! We'd enjoy chatting with you about your interests and what our learning vacation may offer you. 

Piet & Mary Van de Mark

Remember how those color snapshots from the '70's fade over the years? You'll find Piet's smiles haven't faded at all when it comes to visiting and re-visiting and sharing our experiences in the Enchanted Peninsula of Baja California. 

This smile was usually constant while running his Zodiac and taking pictures of whales, guests, birds, sunsets...whatever moved his imagination. 

Mary's smile is best when she's surrounded by the Sonoran Desert...forests of Boojums and blooming plants and cactus.

Those early days of the whale camps and the Zodiacs are in the past now, but the experience lingers on in Baja California and the Greater American Southwest. We invite you to join us for a memorable learning vacation. Choose the one that sparks your imagination, and give us a call!